Post by bullstarz on Aug 9, 2021 10:26:44 GMT
Now I’ve had a few issues with the brakes and clutch. To start off with I thought the front brakes weren’t working properly. So replaced the pads with a better compound. This made no difference, and when I took the car out I noticed the rear brakes were getting hot while the fronts remaining cool.
but did notice that the rears seem to be almost binding when they got warm so I did suspect the rear calipers. First I stripped the calipers down cleaned them and freed off this improved things a bit however, finally I replace these, not the car to converted to rear disc.
Things still didn’t seem to work correctly, I do have a pedal box fitted in the car, with duel master cylinders. One for the front and one for the rear. Now these are supposed to work in a certain way and didn’t so replace the rear master cylinder getting larger each time as this should have solved the issue. Now this sort of worked but not completely, the brakes still weren’t as sharp as it should be.
The next thing I replaced all the lines again this improve things slightly but not hundred percent. I’ve since re-calibrated my brake flaring tool, a bit more research realised that there isn’t just two types of brake flare. There seems to be about four male ones and two female ones. This all depend on metric, Imperial, old English, American and JIC/AN-.
www.fedhillusa.com/?page=flare
So now I’m in the process of once again re-doing all the brake lines with the correct flair and also going to stupidly find details of prep in each line. This includes making sure the cutting straight, sanding and then D-burring and putting on a slight chamfer . In the vain hope I’m not only get a fluid tight seal but an airtight seal.
but did notice that the rears seem to be almost binding when they got warm so I did suspect the rear calipers. First I stripped the calipers down cleaned them and freed off this improved things a bit however, finally I replace these, not the car to converted to rear disc.
Things still didn’t seem to work correctly, I do have a pedal box fitted in the car, with duel master cylinders. One for the front and one for the rear. Now these are supposed to work in a certain way and didn’t so replace the rear master cylinder getting larger each time as this should have solved the issue. Now this sort of worked but not completely, the brakes still weren’t as sharp as it should be.
The next thing I replaced all the lines again this improve things slightly but not hundred percent. I’ve since re-calibrated my brake flaring tool, a bit more research realised that there isn’t just two types of brake flare. There seems to be about four male ones and two female ones. This all depend on metric, Imperial, old English, American and JIC/AN-.
www.fedhillusa.com/?page=flare
So now I’m in the process of once again re-doing all the brake lines with the correct flair and also going to stupidly find details of prep in each line. This includes making sure the cutting straight, sanding and then D-burring and putting on a slight chamfer . In the vain hope I’m not only get a fluid tight seal but an airtight seal.
Over the years I’ve tried different ways of bleeding the system. I was just wondering if anybody has got a favourite way, that is almost guaranteed to get rid of Air without using a huge amount of brake fluid.