Post by bullstarz on Apr 2, 2021 17:45:21 GMT
The clutch on my car is a Tilton 7 1/4 triple plate affair, and these clutches are pretty much on or off. Which can make pulling off a bit, well I don’t think there is words that describe it really. Tilton say to use a .75 master cylinder for the clutch.
Now here is the question or puzzle and I’m very interested if anybody’s got any knowledge or experience, so as the car is part strip down I can do some swapping about.
I’ve done a bit on hydraulics and got a bit of knowledge on physics, and from my reckoning it should work, but more than likely won’t. But I’m thinking of doing is swapping out the 0.75 Master cylinder and swapping it with a 0.7 or 0.625 cylinder.
Doing the maths, as far as I’m concerned the difference will be 15% or 44% respectively. So this should mean that the clutch pedal will be 15% or 44% easier to press. As a consequence of swapping to a smaller master cylinder the amount of fluid pushed to the clutch will be reduced by the same amount.
The clutch should, in principle, still function but to make it work you’d have to press the clutch pedal by 15% or 44% further for it to do so. With the 0.75 master cylinder there is a very small movement of the clutch pedal, between the clutch disengaged and fully engaged. This should also be increased by the same amount. As a result there should be more control of the bite of the clutch.
I’m fairy (but not 100%) sure my reasoning is correct but I may be completely barking up the wrong tree, and let’s face it it wouldn’t be the first time.
Now here is the question or puzzle and I’m very interested if anybody’s got any knowledge or experience, so as the car is part strip down I can do some swapping about.
I’ve done a bit on hydraulics and got a bit of knowledge on physics, and from my reckoning it should work, but more than likely won’t. But I’m thinking of doing is swapping out the 0.75 Master cylinder and swapping it with a 0.7 or 0.625 cylinder.
Doing the maths, as far as I’m concerned the difference will be 15% or 44% respectively. So this should mean that the clutch pedal will be 15% or 44% easier to press. As a consequence of swapping to a smaller master cylinder the amount of fluid pushed to the clutch will be reduced by the same amount.
The clutch should, in principle, still function but to make it work you’d have to press the clutch pedal by 15% or 44% further for it to do so. With the 0.75 master cylinder there is a very small movement of the clutch pedal, between the clutch disengaged and fully engaged. This should also be increased by the same amount. As a result there should be more control of the bite of the clutch.
I’m fairy (but not 100%) sure my reasoning is correct but I may be completely barking up the wrong tree, and let’s face it it wouldn’t be the first time.
