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Post by Admin on Aug 2, 2020 10:17:36 GMT
Ok I have the forum police on my case so I hope I have got this right this time. Question Hi Neil are you flying farmer from the SOC forum. Yes, it is me. Wouldn't accept flying farmer Rise, flying farmer All changed, let me know if thats not OK |
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Post by staggard on Aug 2, 2020 10:28:21 GMT
Great to have you on board wealth of knowledge 👍
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river
New Member
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Post by river on Aug 2, 2020 13:03:20 GMT
Wow, I would not have linked carb dashpot oil level with overheating, but I checked, needed to top up, and it appears to have made a difference..Thanks!!
I am not completely celebrating just yet, because today is cooler than previous days and I have not had time for a longer trip, but it does seem to be better. On a test trip, I was able to drive it the way it should be driven, without a light right foot, without putting into neutral downhill and with the heater on the cold setting, and the needle only raised a little bit over halfway. Brilliant!
I am not sure of age of radiator, but from a visual check only it looks to be in good condition. I removed it, reversed flushed and changed coolant a couple of weeks ago. I don’t seem to lose any coolant, and have the original header tank. A check with an infrared thermometer did not identify any obvious cold spots.
I have thought about fitting an original viscous fan, but will it really help given it was heating up at a speed when I would have thought a fan is not normally required/helpful?
Engine was rebuilt a couple of years ago. I don’t know if it has been re-torqued as I have only recently bought the car. Do you suggest I go do this now?
Thermostat - if not opening properly, would it return to normal temp at idle/traffic/slower speeds? If you think it could be a culprit I can buy a new one easily enough.
Thanks for all the help and suggestions.
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Post by misterbojangles on Aug 2, 2020 13:30:39 GMT
Wow, I would not have linked carb dashpot oil level with overheating, but I checked, needed to top up, and it appears to have made a difference..Thanks!! I am not completely celebrating just yet, because today is cooler than previous days and I have not had time for a longer trip, but it does seem to be better. On a test trip, I was able to drive it the way it should be driven, without a light right foot, without putting into neutral downhill and with the heater on the cold setting, and the needle only raised a little bit over halfway. Brilliant! I am not sure of age of radiator, but from a visual check only it looks to be in good condition. I removed it, reversed flushed and changed coolant a couple of weeks ago. I don’t seem to lose any coolant, and have the original header tank. A check with an infrared thermometer did not identify any obvious cold spots. I have thought about fitting an original viscous fan, but will it really help given it was heating up at a speed when I would have thought a fan is not normally required/helpful? Engine was rebuilt a couple of years ago. I don’t know if it has been re-torqued as I have only recently bought the car. Do you suggest I go do this now? Thermostat - if not opening properly, would it return to normal temp at idle/traffic/slower speeds? If you think it could be a culprit I can buy a new one easily enough. Thanks for all the help and suggestions. When you say 'original' header tank do you mean expansion bottle fitted low down? |
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Sapphirestag
Full Member
Letting your tyres down at the moment. I was also a target of the Fiefdom controlling the SOC forum
Posts: 129
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Post by Sapphirestag on Aug 2, 2020 13:43:19 GMT
Wow, I would not have linked carb dashpot oil level with overheating, but I checked, needed to top up, and it appears to have made a difference..Thanks!! I am not completely celebrating just yet, because today is cooler than previous days and I have not had time for a longer trip, but it does seem to be better. On a test trip, I was able to drive it the way it should be driven, without a light right foot, without putting into neutral downhill and with the heater on the cold setting, and the needle only raised a little bit over halfway. Brilliant! I am not sure of age of radiator, but from a visual check only it looks to be in good condition. I removed it, reversed flushed and changed coolant a couple o f weeks ago. I don’t seem to lose any coolant, and have the original header tank. A check with an infrared thermometer did not identify any obvious cold spots. I have thought about fitting an original viscous fan, but will it really help given it was heating up at a speed when I would have thought a fan is not normally required/helpful? Engine was rebuilt a couple of years ago. I don’t know if it has been re-torqued as I have only recently bought the car. Do you suggest I go do this now? Thermostat - if not opening properly, would it return to normal temp at idle/traffic/slower speeds? If you think it could be a culprit I can buy a new one easily enough. Thanks for all the help and suggestions. 1, If the thermostat is not fully opening and restricting coolant flow, then yes. very easy, quick job as well for about £10. It will also give you the opportunity to check you have the correct type fitted to match your inlet manifold should that be the issue as previously suggested by others. 2, It is worth re torquing the head bolts but back each one off a 1/4 of a turn before re tightening. If you mark them in some way you will be able to see if they have compressed the gasket any further after re setting. 3, In my opinion (for what its worth), the original VC Fan is better as the temperature is kept more even and it helps dissipate the hot air in the engine bay at lower speeds |
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Post by Flying Farmer on Aug 2, 2020 19:58:05 GMT
Yes, it is me. Wouldn't accept flying farmer It would have Neil had you not left a space between the 2 words. When all reasonable courses of action have failed, read the instructions 
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Post by Flying Farmer on Aug 2, 2020 20:02:50 GMT
Since you have a TR6 spoiler fitted the viscous fan won't make a much of a difference at speed, but temperature fluctuates all over the place without a spoiler fitted. BTDT
Neil
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Post by richardthestag on Aug 2, 2020 20:13:05 GMT
what about secret spoiler Neil?
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Post by seaking on Aug 2, 2020 20:23:23 GMT
Richard I made a secret spoiler it is not as effective as the tr6 spoiler that I now have fitted
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river
New Member
Posts: 7
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Post by river on Aug 5, 2020 13:34:31 GMT
Thinking about the re-torque point, I noticed the different condition of bolts/studs on the LH and RH heads. See attached photos. RH looks good, but the LH shows evidence of weeping which looks like it has started rusting the bolts/studs. I am not sure if this is old or current, so will clean it up and monitor, but in the meantime, does this suggest the head has not been correctly re-torqued after the rebuild? Could this have done any damage? ![]() |
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bullstarz
Full Member
I don't believe in miracles, divine intervention or good luck............. I rely on them.
Posts: 135
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Post by bullstarz on Aug 5, 2020 17:42:03 GMT
Looks like it has wept a bit, have you attempted to re-torque the heads as Sapphirestag mentioned. As they might need doing by the look of it, what were the outer studs like on the LH side.
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Sapphirestag
Full Member
Letting your tyres down at the moment. I was also a target of the Fiefdom controlling the SOC forum
Posts: 129
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Post by Sapphirestag on Aug 5, 2020 18:51:26 GMT
You shouldn't have coolant leaking around the Studs / bolts. Re torque all of them. What kind of torque wrench do you have ? and is it still in calibration. using a cheap DIY type is not advisable as its unlikely to be accurate, same applies if its been stored without being wound back to zero before being put in to storage.
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river
New Member
Posts: 7
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Post by river on Aug 5, 2020 19:29:48 GMT
Thanks. I don't have a pro/recently calibrated torque wrench so will ask my local garage to do it.
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